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New Routes and Upgrades is published in good faith and for general information purpose only. These updates do not make any warranties about the completeness, reliability and accuracy of this information.  
Updated September 25, 2023

These updates contain new route and access information for changes that have occurred since publication of: Skaha Climbing by Marc Bourdon. Quickdraw Publications, 2018

In some cases routes have seen very few ascents, so grades are tentative and quality stars are not suggested.

Another Buttress

  • Highway to Hell *** 5.9 6 bolts 14m. Russ Turner Fall 2019. Start at the wide crack/chimney 3m right of Leverage.
    Bear L and then up through overlaps.
  • Rock the Casbah*** 5.7 7 bolts 16m. Lyle Thiede & Russ Turner Fall 2019. Between Lick it in Your Panties
    and Hair on a G-String.
  • Pretzel Logic *** 5.6 9 bolts 20m. Russ Turner 2020/02.
    Immediately L of Don't Worry.

Balcony (Terraces)

  • Vertically Challenged* 11c (height dependent) 7 bolts. Rolf Rybak FA Casey Green 2018. Starts just L of glued in access rungs.

Bedrock City

Three new routes by Doug Orr on the north (right) end of this remote crag
(all 2021-03-11). You can approach Bedrock City from the south via Claim-it-All Wall (longer) or from the north via the Gas Pipeline Road (steeper). The new routes are about 15 m long and face S.E.

A. Yabba Dabba Do** Green route- 10+ / 11- 8 bolts
B. The Flint Stone** Blue route- Flint Stone 12- 7 bolts
C. Fred** Red route- 10+ 6 bolts

Behemoth

Left. The Proscenium (a.k.a. The Stage) is a nice looking, 16 m high, cliff above small terrace on the S end of the main cliff. Easiest approach is by continuing S from Reilly Rock and then contouring around the southern end of Behemoth. Can also be accessed from the valley floor at the S end of the main Behemoth buttress. There are currently 3 routes and two projects. L-R:

1. Theatre School Dropout (aka Exit Stage Right) 5.9 7 bolts. John Pogson 2023-03-12
Start at the base of a wide crack in a right-facing corner. Step up and left to gain the face. Climb on a variety of holds to a chain anchor with fixed carabiners.
2. A Midsummer Gneiss Dream 5.9- 6 bolts. John Pogson 2023-11-28
Start at the base of a wide crack in a right-facing corner. Stay straight, just to left of corner crack. Climb on a variety of holds to a chain anchor with fixed carabiners.

A. Merchant of VenGneiss 10d/11a 6 bolts. Brian Bendig 2021-03-03.
   Stick clip the first bolt. Bouldery moves past the fixed draw then a romp to the top.
B. School of Rock: A Rock Fest** 11a 7 Bolts. Alex Preissl 2021-05-17.
C. Dawn Giovanni** 11b 8 clips. Stick clip 2nd bolt recommended.
   Brian Bendig 2021-03-03.
D. Balcony Seats** 11c 8 bolts. Brian Bendig 2022-03-26.
E. Guardian of the Gantry** 5.10d. 7 bolts. Brian Bendig 2024-02-09
Stick clip first bolt. Thin holds lead to jugs. Some nice jams to finish if you're so inclined.

Note: There is a rap anchor at the N end of the ledge from which you can reach the valley floor to access the main Behemoth buttress.

Right. Behemoth Main (L-R):

F. It's Gotta be a 12*** 12- Chris Harp 2021-04-10.
G. The Great Solitude*** 12a 12 bolts 27 m. Casey Green 2021-03-06. Stellar!!
H. Shipshape 13a 10 bolts 27 m. Bolted Casey Green. FA Simon Wyvill 2021-06-09.
    Note: A hold has broken off in the crux section so the route may now be harder.
    At the time of writing, a few med size cams (or a 15 ft stick clipper) are required
    to protect the5.10 crack at the start. Above, sustained 12- climbing
    leads to a steep and powerful crux.
I. Movin' on Up*** 12b 13 bolts 28m. Rick Leslie 2021/03/20.
   Sustained 5.12 climbing most of the way. Another stellar climb.
J. Get a Move On*** 12a 13 bolts 30 m. Rick Leslie 2020/11/4. 3m L of No Loitering.
   Yet another stellar climb. A project started by Rolf
   (who now wishes that he had persisted with it!)
K. No Loitering*** 11d 11bolts 22 m. Jon Jones 2015-05-29. (See guidebook.)

3. The Underworld

This is the line of cliffs that you pass on your right just before you reach Behemoth Main cliff when you approach from the north.


DR-Daylight Robbery, CA Castle Anthrax (see guidebook);
    R Rap route to the valley floor (20 m).

Note: CA Castle Anthrax: grade change from 10a to 10+ due to a hold breaking off on the traverse R near the top. 2 new bolts have been added that allow you to finish at the Jolly Roger anchor instead. (The 11a finish is unchanged.)

A'. Direct Start ** to Jolly Roger, 10+ 4 bolts to ledge. Jon Jones 2021/09/20.
A. Jolly Roger 10a 10 bolts 20m. Jon Jones 2021/08/29.
    Starts just L of Hiatus. Follow the diagonal break up and left to a large ledge
    and then climb the groove/crack system at its left end. The fixed draws
    on the first half of this routewere installed to make cleaning the pitch easier
    and to help with rope management.
    Use a short draw on the first bolt above the ledge to protect an awkward move
    and then back clean it after you clip the next bolt (fixed chain)
    to reduce rope drag. Some fun climbing,somewhat spoilt by the large ledge
    at half height.
B. Hiatus*** 11- 11 bolts 22 m. Rolf Rybak 2021-03-02.
   A nice slightly overhanging crux leads to a ledge and a rest before
    a cryptic and technical finish.
C. 60 Years On*** 11a 13 bolts 24 m. Jon Jones 2021-03-08.
   A technical crux to start followed by several steep sustained 10+ sections
    between good rests.
D. Give the People What They Want*** 11b 13 bolts 23 m. Jon Jones 2021-10-19.
    Starts a few m R of 60Years On. Climb the short (6 m) wall to a large ledge (3 bolts)
    and then the obvious chimney/corner/crack system above.
    Mostly 5.10 climbing. Slow to dry.
E.Jangelaphobia** 12- 11 bolts 25m. Francois Bergeron and
    Bernie MacGillivary 2021-05-18.Start as for the previous route (GTPWTW) but clip the
   right-hand line of bolts. Branch R after the 2nd bolt and climb up to the
   large ledge and the start of the crack. (The start of the crack was originally reached
    by traversing in along the ledge from the right.) .

The next 4 climbs start where the approach trail from the N first meets the rock.

*Climbers left of F. The Consultant is The Final Battle 5.11. - FA Jon Jones. His last climb just a few weeks before his passing. It is not marked in the photo.

F. The Consultant** 11d 10 bolts 20 m. Casey Green 2022-03-02.
G. Christmas Present*** 11+ 10 bolts 20 m. Face to left hand crack line.
    Prep. Jon Jones, FA Rick Leslie 2021-09-26.
H. Nicked** 11d 9 bolts 18 m. Not actually nicked, but gifted to Nick by Rolf.
    Face to right hand crack line. A bit of a one-move-wonder turning the overlap,
    which will feel harder if you are short. Prep. Rolf Rybak, FA Nick Korvin 2021-09-19.
I. Project

Just right of here is a VERY loose chimney/crack system - it has been climbed but the perp wishes to remain anonymous and has removed the bolts.

J. The Honey Trap** 11- 6 bolts 12 m. Just R of the loose chimney system.
   Fun climbing on good rock. Jon Jones 2021-12-01.
    CAUTION: There is an abandoned bees' nest near the anchor of this route.
    Check before you climb that the bees haven't returned!
K. (Extension) 4 bolts, project.
L. Buzz Off* 10 5 bolts 10 m. 8 m R of Honey Trap.
   Seeps after rain. Jon Jones 2021-12-01.
M.Mighty Mite ** 11b 6 bolts 13m. Jon Jones 2022-03-26. Start 5 m R of Buzz Off.
    The obvious right leaning crack line.

Belfry, The

The Remnant 14d. Skaha's hardest sport climb. Breaks R from bolt below the upper roof of The Replicant and ascends the even more overhanging wall to the top of the cliff. Prep by Sonnie Trotter. FA Elan Jonas McRae 2019/06.

Crystal Visions*** 12- 11bolts 23m. Between Orrgazmo and Rock Hard. Caiya Ainslie & Alex Gula 2021. The finish is reported to be "spicy".

Chatsworth Edge

  • Dr Tongue Sticks It West 10c 6 bolts. Peter Drzymala & Marla Balzer 10/2018. Follows thin seam between Lonely Blond and Red Herring.

Cipher Wall

This is a novice-focused, south facing, low angle crag that is located on the southernmost end of the Behemoth massif. To get there, follow the main trail south past Riley Rock until it curves around to the left and leads to the base of Cipher Wall (about 5 minutes beyond Riley Rock). The routes all have 7 - 8 protection bolts and are about 20 m in length. (Watch out for Poison Ivy at the base of the cliff.) L to R: All routes by John Pogson

Zero Dark Thirty 5.9
Lunatic 5.9
Project
Sunshine Crack 10-
First Light 5.6

Elusive Edge

Me ,my horsey and a quart of beer 11+ 7 bolts Doug Orr

Fern Gully

  • Prow Beaten *** 5.6 9 bolts 16m. Russ Turner Fall 2019. Start of Easy Does It then head R to anchor.

Foreplay

  • Link-up** 11b/c 7 bolts. Rolf Rybak 08/2018. From 4th bolt of No Foreplay for Grumpa to Start Me Up anchor via It's a Nice Tight Fit.

Foreplay South (Terry's Face), Left

South facing crag which you pass on your way from Foreplay main to Reilly Rock . Short (12 - 15m) but fun climbs. Takes longer to dry after rain than Terry's Face Right and also retains morning shade a little longer. Cruxes are short and well protected. A few long slings may be useful for rope management through overlaps. (A - F Jon Jones 2020; G, H Bill Sperling 2016; I Rolf Rybak, 2020.)

A. Bombs Away* 11a 6 bolts. Start 4m R of the L edge of the cliff.
    Obvious corner and headwall above.
B. A Quick Fling** 11a 9 bolts. Fun moves to turn headwall.
C. Slap and Tickle** 5.9 8 bolts.
D. Fun and Games* 11b 7 bolts.
   Powerful crux at roof leads to 5.8 ramble up the corner to the anchor.
E. Footsie* 11a 7 bolts. Bear R at mid point.
F. Short but Stiff** 11b 7 bolts. Interesting climbing with a taxing finish.
G. Cam Girl 10a Trad. (See guidebook.)
H. At Least She's Easy 5.8 Trad. (See guidebook.) Shares anchor with I.
I. A Bit on the Side* 10a 5 bolts. Start as for H and climb bolted arête,
    finishing on face to L.

Fortress, The

Captain Winkler*** 10b 13 bolts 35 m. Re-cleaned and re-bolted in January 2021. Anchor lowered so that you can now climb and then lower off with a single 70 m rope. With a 60 m rope, you will have to lower/rap twice (via the Minor Skirmish anchor).

Winston's Choice-Mortal Combat*** (link-up) 12a 21 QD's 50 m. From WC anchor head R to join MC. With an 80 m rope you can lower back to the WC anchor. Brent Nixon 2021-09-23.

Go Anywhere Wall

A retrofit of the routes between Riders of the Storm and Autumn Gold was conducted by members of TRU Adventure Studies Group under the direction of Russ Turner and Fred Amyot. For full details click here. This also resulted in two new routes:

Yahtzee 5.7,8 bolts. Between Go Here and Tony the Tiger. Robin Arens, Christopher Murray-Schlitt.
It Depends 5.6,6 bolts. Between Corporate Bladder and Autumn Gold. Deanna Zator, Thomas Brossard.

Great White

Motel of Lost Companions to Painted Bird *** 12b/c. Link-up via black hanger after 8th bolt of MLC. Chris Harp 2020/09 but probably climbed before this.

Jericho


(n = not marked on photo.)

A. Power and Grace 13b 15 bolts 30 m. Starts just R of corner at L end of face.
   (Andrew Ashley, FA Joshhua L'Heureux 2019/08.
n. Extended Stay 12d 15 bolts 30 m. Start on ledges 3 m right of Power and Grace.
    Climb through blocky overlaps and join Icarus just below crux.
   Prep Pat Heney & Mason Tessier. FA Pat Heney 2021-10-23
n. It's a First*10c. Bolted Chris Harp FA Laura Harp 2020/05.
    4 bolt warm up that starts a few m L of Icarus and climbs
    face to an anchor below and left of its 7th bolt.
B. Icarus*** 35m, 19 bolts. 5.12b Stan Sabourin 2019/09.
    Long, left- leaning crack/seam with fixed draws.
    Shares first 3 bolts with Merkava.
n. Space Commander*** 13b 12 bolts 28m.
    Breaks out L at bolt 5 of Merkava; 7 more (but spacious) bolts
    and demanding footwork lead to chained anchor.
    Mason Tessier 2021/04/15.
C. Merkava** 11d 9 bolts. (first 3 now equipped with fixed draws). John Pogson 2017.
D. Little League** 11+ 9 bolts. L slanting line a few m R of Merkava.
    (Andrew Ashley 2018/05).
D' Major League* 12c. 5 bolt extension of Little League. Andrew Ashley 2019/07.
E. Gumboot Dancer*** 12d 14 bolts 32 m (E' 12a 8 bolts to first anchor).
    Rob Birtles FA Rick Leslie 2018/08. Starts just L of Antaeus.
    Stick clip the very high first fixed chain from the giant detached flake that is
    in front of the base of the buttress. Eight fixed chains to first anchor then
    6 bolts to top. The crux is short (and difficult if you are too).
F. Antaeus*** 12d 10 (glue-in) bolts 30 m. Hugh Lenny and Sean Dougherty
    FA Hugh Lenny 1999/04.
    Stick-clip the first bolt from the giant detached flake mentioned above..
    Overall a more difficult and sustained climb than its neighbour to the left.
    Touted by some to be the best 12d at Skaha.
G. Ascending to Uranus *** 12c 11 (?) bolts. Josh Lavigne 2019/08.
   Climb first 3 bolts of Anteus and then branch right. Fun steep moves.
    'It has been reported that there are some large,
    potentially unstable blocks/flakes on this route which could be a safety concern'.

H. Project 11 bolts. Warning: Ground-fall potential.

Great White North

A new sector of climbing! Jani Vaaranpaa bolted and developed 5 new climbs on this iconic BC cliff. Climbs described from South to North (left of Belgian Dangler).

Cokeanagan 12b 22M 9 draws. Tough bulge encounter pulling onto head wall above. Maybe easier for tall climbers.
Bolted Fresh Daily 11a 22M 9 draws. Contender for steepest 11a at Skaha. All jugs and some knee bars too!
Aftershock 11d 18M 7 draws. A fun juggy intro leads to physical sustained climbing. Choose your clipping stance wisely for the last draw. Back clean 1st draw for smoother belay.
Exit 2 Eden 12c 18M 7 draws. The zone test piece on golden Skaha stone. The line of power which drew me to this wall.
Oughta do it 12a 17M 6 draws. A beautiful techy Skaha crux with plenty of options. Make sure you have the slab exit dialed as some ascents run out of steam Jani Vaaranpaa May '23.

Kids' Cliff

  • Project 9 bolts 15m. Between Rejuvenation and Smoking Behind the Bike Sheds.
  • Makin' Bacon ** 10b 8 bolts 18m.Denise Bacon 2020/05. The dark streak between Generation Gap and 'S Cool Wall.
  • Smooth Sailing *** 11a 10 bolts 18m. Rolf Rybak 2020/05. Sustained 5.10 climbing with a well protected reachy crux getting by the fixed chain. Start 2 m R of Powered by Ding Dongs
  • Scorpion* 10b 8 bolts 15m. Jon Jones 2020/05. Relatively easy climbing to the last bolt and the crux. Start 2 m R of previous route.
  • Dad Bod 12- 10 bolts 18m. Starts just L of Polaris.

Little White

Slappers Only 12b/c. Between Cherrying on the Straight Edge and Blistering in the Sun. "Big pulls, small holds, a stiffy for the finish and one loud slap." Pre-clipping high first bolt recommended. Shares anchor with Blistering.

Maternal Wall

  • Pink Cosmo Girls* 10c 7 bolts to the first anchor. John Fantini 2004/04. The "mid way" anchor was replaced in 2019 and the first few hangers above this removed because of concerns over loose rock on the extension to this climb.

Ochre Wall

  • Sunshine on my Shoulders*** 12c 9 bolts Doug Orr 2021-04-02. L of Snakeskin Tracksuit. 4th class choss to start - stick clip the first bolt.
  • Golden Years*** 11d 12/13 bolts. Doug Orr 2020/02. Just R of Snakeskin Tracksuit. Open Project (Feeble Years). Goes straight then L towards the anchor of Golden Years from where Enfeebled trends R at about 2/3 height.
  • Ebbing Towards Feeble*** 12d A more direct, 6 bolt link-up from Ebbing Strength (bolt #4) to join Enfeebled high up. Bolted Doug Orr. FA Nick Korvin 2021/04.
  • Leader of the Pack 5.10+ 16 meters 7 bolts. Jani Vaaranpaa. Farthest L route on Ochre Wall. Left of Sunshine on my Shoulders. The route was named with Jon Jones as the inspiration.
Note: Doug also added a bolt just above the ledge of Enfeebled and moved another to mitigate the chances of hitting the ledge should you fall.

Off White

This much neglected 20 - 25 m high crag was in serious need of a makeover - the original routes (dating from 2001) were in a very scruffy state; most had substandard anchors and all were equipped with carbon steel bolts. The anchors of all the original routes have been upgraded and all, except Brindabella Way, have been re-cleaned and equipped with stainless steel bolts. There are also 5 ½ new routes.
From L to R:

  1. Weakened Warrior* 11c 7 bolts Rolf Rybak 2018.
  2. Carpet Cleaner** 10b 8 bolts. Rolf Rybak 2018. Better and harder than it looks. Sustained.
  3. Battle of the Bulge ** 12- 9 bolts. Rick Leslie 2019/09. Crux is short and well protected.
  4. Get Smart** 11+ 9 bolts. Prep Rolf Rybak FA Melissa Smart 2021-09-23.
  5. BC Parks*** 11b 9 bolts. Robin Barley FA John Fantini. 2001/04 Excellent!
  6. True Yellow** 11b 10 bolts. Alt (easier) start to True Blue. Jon Jones 2018. Starts just right of BC Parks and follow grey hangers to join True Blue at the 6th bolt.
  7. True Blue ** 11c 10 bolts. John Fantini 2001/07. A hard start is followed by great (and much easier) climbing above the horizontal break. Some creaky holds
  8. Brindabella Way** 12a 9 bolts. John Fantini 2001/04.
  9. Blind Alley 10a 4 bolts. The name says it all. A very short warm-up. Jon Jones 2019/07.
  10. Roo-bar** 11d 9 bolts. John Fantini 2001/03. A burly start, then keep on crimpin'!
  11. Rather Off-White*** 11d 10 bolts. John Fantini 2001/03. Seductive left-leaning 'crack' line. Sustained!
  12. Rather Jolly Actually *** 11a 10 bolts. Robin Barley 2001/06. Branches right from RO-W at the horizontal break.
  13. No Gear Fear Here* 10d. Obvious crack (trad). Robin Barley & Howie Richardson 2002/10.
  14. The Deceiver*** 11c 7 bolts. John Fantini 2001/03.
  15. Forgive Us Our Trespasses** 10c, 10 bolts. Jon Jones 2019/07. Squeezed in and in places contrived, but good, climbing at a more moderate grade than its neighbour to the left. Much easier (but not as much fun) if you traverse right to finish.
  16. Wysiwyg** 5.8, 9 bolts. Jon Jones 2019/07. Start on easy left- trending ramp. Go hard right at horizontal beak and climb the blunt arête.

Orange Wall, The

This is the orange buttress directly opposite The Underworld (Behemoth). Rock quality is variable. Morning shade. L - R:

  • Off width Crack Left of project. Gear, double 3,4,5 5.10 B Adam Kunis
  • Project The leftmost route on the face above the gully at the N end of the cliff. Rolf Rybak
  • Tang 10+ 6 bolts 12m. Ascends the middle of the face just R of the previous route. Rolf Rybak
  • Navel Gazing 10+ 6 bolts 12 m. Starts at the base of the arête, just right of the previous routes. Jon Jones
  • Orange Juice 10b 6 bolts 14 m. Follow the obvious crack line near the L end of the front face. Rolf Rybak
  • Orange Jam 11- 10 bolts 18 m. Ascends the face just R of the previous route. Rolf Rybak
  • Borrowed Time 11- 8 bolts 14 m. Start just R of the previous route then head R and up the face. Jon Jones
  • Peeling the Orange 5.9 10 bolts 17 m. Start near the right end of the front face. Climb up and L around the obvious flake to a ledge, then up the face and slot just R of the large dead tree. Jon Jones
  • The Orange Arête 5.9 11 bolts 18 m. Starts just R of the previous route. Climb onto the ledge and then the slab on the left. Move R and follow the bolts. Jon Jones

Proscenium

See - Behemoth

Prow, The


The Prow (S = Swift, SD = Squamish Delight. Climber circled.)

1. Gladius*** 3 pitches (10c,11b,10c) 56 m. Bolted Allan Massin.
    FA: Tom Freebairn (P1, P2); Allan Massin (P3) 2020/09.
    P2 is outstanding. Take 15 QD's. Between Swift and Squamish Delight.
2. Project A few m L of Squamish Delight.

Two new routes at the north end of the west face of The Prow. Access by scrambling to the top of the gully and then, with the help of two rungs, climb onto the starting ledge. L - R:

A Passage to Nowhere 11c 10 bolts 20 m. The leftmost of the two.
Leon's Legacy mid-5.11 10 bolts 20m. The rightmost of the two. Will feel like a 12 if you mess up the crux sequence.
Project

Pump House

A small steep cliff of very shattered rock just above the Evergreen Drive parking lot.

Approach: Climb steeply up the hill behind the small building with the green roof in the SE corner of the parking lot to the reservoir. The Pump House is just above and to the left (3 or 4 minutes from parking).

  • The Pump House 10b 5 bolts. Rolf Rybak 2020/05. A pumpy start leads to an easier finish.

Punk Rock see Walmart Crag

Raven's Castle

  • Black Bird 14a 9 bolts. Direct finish to Into the Frying Pan. Adam Tutte, Cody Leyden. FA Sonnie Trotter 2018
  • Castle Logic** 11+ 7 bolts 20 m. Up the corner to L of Robbing the Castle to the sparsely bolted face above. Jani Vaaranpaa 2021-11-20.

Raven's Castle, East

  • Beak'in' Off** 10c 7 bolts 15 m. Between Well-mannered Frivolity and Anti-gravity Lichen. Start just L of Anti-gravity avoiding the roof. Thin sharp face holds lead to a short lie back crack then interesting face climbing to the big ledge. Evelyn Ens & John Warren. 2021/05.

Red Tail

  • Trickle Down *** 5.7 11 bolts 27m. Russ Turner Fall 2019.
    Just R of Mother Superior.

Reilly Rock (South Face) See Windy Point.

Reilly Rock (East Face) See Windy Wall.

Reilly Rock (West Face)

Three short, easy beginner routes have been built at the left (south) end of the cliff. From L to R these go at 5.3, 5.4, and 5.5 respectively. Two rap stations have been installed at the back of the bench above these routes to make setting up top ropes safer. See Below:

  • Black Face 5.9 7 bolts 15 m. Jon Jones 2021/07/05. bolts 20 m downhill (R) of Jankell (about 30 m L of Revved Up Like a Deuce) Starts at the L edge of the black face, just R of a blocky R-facing corner.
  • Sickle* 5.9 8 bolts. Jon Jones 2020/09. 10 m L of Revved Up Like a Deuce.
  • Another Runner in the Night* 10c 5 bolts 12 m. Jon Jones 2021/07/05. Between Sickle and Revved Up Like a Deuce.
  • Boomerang** 10a 9 bolts. Jon Jones 2018. Between Blinded by the Light and Pug. Undercut crack to face.
  • A Short Grunt to Nowhere 10b 5 bolts. Jon Jones 2018. The name says it all. Branch out right after 2nd bolt of Dancing in the Shade and struggle over the overhang. The anchor is just above. Originally planned as a longer climb. However, the climbing beyond the current belay looked particularly uninteresting and would have been a waste of bolts.
At the right end of the face is a trio of short (15 m), closely spaced routes by Rolf Rybak. (L-R):

Short But Sweet* 5.7 6 bolts 15m. (See guidebook. Extended August 2021).
Damn Straight** 10b 6 bolts 15m. A tricky read. Rolf Rybak 2021/08/26.
Damn Right* 5.9+ 6 bolts 15m. Rolf Rybak 2021/08/26

Rutopia
  • Kids' Stuff** 11c 8 bolts. Jon Jones, FA Rick Leslie 2019/06. Just L of Crack Pipe (the vegetated corner crack/chimney) on an isolated buttress 70 m east of Rutopia (main). Hardly Kids'Stuff - the combined ages of the climb's two protagonists was 141 years!

Seniors' Centre, The

The short, 12 - 15 m high, whitish coloured cliff directly opposite the N end of Kids' Cliff is steeper than it looks! Follow a rough track that starts opposite Rapunzel to the base of the cliff. There are currently 4 well-groomed routes, all by Rick Leslie July and August 2021. L - R:

A. It Ain't What You Think** 12a 5 bolts.
B. This Ain't No Daycare** 12b 7 bolts. A bit reachy.
C. It Ain't Over 'Til It's Over*** 12c 7 bolts.
D. It Ain't What It's Cracked Up To Be ** 11c 5 bolts. A difficult on-sight!

Shady Hollow (The Refuge)

  • Parabellum*** 13a 30m 10 bolts. Amazing looking line that follows twin seams up a steep wall. Peter Arbic 09/2019.

Shady Lane
  • Big Mike's Rehab** 12a 9 bolts. Rolf Rybak 2019/06. Between Quantum Jitters
    and Off Spring.

Shortcut Cliff


This W facing cliff has seen a resurgence of interest in the last couple of years.

  1. Everscream Terrors** 11b/c 5 bolts 9m. Noah O'Rourke 2020/11/28. Nice looking short face on a separate block below and L of the main cliff.

    There are 2 new routes on the L wing of the main cliff,
    just L of Finger Licking Good:

  2. Lost in Translation 11a/b 6 bolts.
    Benjamín Ignacio Pérez 2021/01/18. 4 m L of Finger Licking Good.
    Needs more cleaning.

  3. Abu Dhabi Madness** 12+ 8 bolts 15 m. Connor Runge 2020/11/26. Technical and demanding face climbing with the crux near the top. 2 m L of Finger Licking Good.

  4. Finger Licking Good*** 10b/c 18m. A very good crack climb. (See guidebook.)

  5. Up in Smoke*** 11a 10 bolts 18m. Jon Jones 2021/08/02. Stem up the corner at the start of Finger Licking Good, clipping bolts on the face to the R of the wide crack. Just above the 2nd bolt break out right and follow bolts to an anchor 2 m R of the FLG anchor. Bring a long tether so that the belayer can lean back and see the leader on the upper part of the route. Note: From the 9th bolt it is possible to head left to the FLG anchor (and set up a top rope on it if you forgot to bring your rack with you.)

    Right of this is the central face of Shortcut Cliff, which features several sub-parallel left-leaning diagonal crack lines. L to R:

  6. Lower, Slower, Weaker** 10c 6 bolts 13m. Start approx. 10 m L of The Working Poor at a thin crack. Climb this then head L and up to the ledge at about half height. For maximum points, stand up on the finishing ledge. Jon Jones 2021/08/19.

    Farther right, about 10 -15 m L of The Working Poor, there are a couple of (mixed?) projects in progress (G and H) that take the prominent left- leaning diagonal lines.

  7. Project

  8. Project

  9. The Working Poor** 10b. (See Guidebook).

  10. Crack of Brawn*** 10c. Classic finger/hand crack. (See Guidebook).

    Just around the corner from here at the extreme R end of the main cliff is a huge cleft:

  11. Platinum 5.8 6 bolts. Aaron Christianson & Ted Lange 2020/09. Chimney up, or climb the right face of, the cleft. Needs more cleaning.

    Just right of this is a light coloured face with two enticing left-leaning lines.

  12. Suffer the Consequences** 5.12b 8 bolts 18m. Rick Leslie 2022-03-25.There is one fixed draw (chain) to prevent swinging into the corner on the L when cleaning from the top. (Note: make sure you clip the CLIMBER'S end of the rope into this when lowering.) Most of the climbing is on the face just L of the "crack" and then switches to the R to finish.

  13. project

  14. Bop It, Pinch It, Sidepull It 11d 8 bolts 20m. Noah o'Rourke. Sustained. Starts at right hand edge of the face behind a tall dead tree.

  15. Ledges and Ladders) 10b 9 bolts. Start in the low angled corner then move out and up face on R. (Needs more cleaning.) Noah. O'Rourke 2021-10-21..


And Now For Something Completely Different 10b 9 bolts 20m.Noah o'Rourke. Start in corner a few m right of previous route. Up corner until it is possible to step L onto the hanging slab. Traverse L to arête then up this to a mantle move to get to the belay. Note: Because of the traverse at the start, it is easiest if the second cleans this route.

Slalom Rock

 Slalom 5.11A The route has been rename ForWard in recognition of the last 5.11 route Ward Jensen climbed before his life altering accident.

Summerland
  • Anna's Laugh 12a 8 bolts 17m. Tom Freebairn 2018/06. Just L of Always a Pleasure. Follow crack/seam to roof, then right to a corner feature.

Terraces, The

 The Fresh Prince 11c. Direct start 4 bolts (11a) to Bel Air (11c) which it joins at 5th bolt.

Three Tier Buttress

 This is a west facing slabby buttress that sits high above the valley floor and is located opposite and slightly south of Behemoth. The rock here is quite fractured, which will likely discourage much further route development. The climbs here are a bit scruffy looking and slow to dry in the spring due to drainage from the broad terrace above.

Approach: Take the Canoe Trail and then the Middle Trail to the north end of Riley Rock. Here a prominent trail splits off left and leads into the valley to the east of Riley Rock. Follow this trail southeastwards, passing Shortcut cliff on the left. After passing the southern end of Shortcut Cliff, the trail curves left and steepens. After a couple of minutes you will reach a terrace where a mountain bike trail splits off to the right* and runs southwards along the bench. Follow this for a minute or so until it steepens. Here a small trail on the right (cairn) drops steeply down and leads to the base of the cliff. Caution: Take care not to slip on the Ponderosa Pine needles! * (Note: The trail that continues steeply up the hillside from where the mountain bike trail splits off to the right leads to the crest of the ridge directly opposite Cave Hill and then down into the northern end of Shady Valley and trails to Kids' Cliff, Jericho, Chatsworth etc.)

L - R: The Wasp 10b 12 bolts 20 m. This one has a bit of a sting in its tail. Jon Jones
Don't Blame Me, I Just Work Here 10b 11 bolts 20 m. Starts up a large cracked block at the base of the highest part of the face. A little harder that The Wasp. (Note: Before pulling the rope from the top anchor, you should unclip it from all the draws, stand well back from the base of the cliff and then "whip" the rope to the right to prevent it from sliding down the face and getting stuck in the blocks at the base of the route.) Jon Jones
I'm Offended 10+ 13 bolts 20 m. Starts just right of previous climb. More sustained in the middle part than the previous two climbs. Rolf Rybak

Walmart Crag, East (Punk Rock)

Punk Rock is a newly developed sector of the long-forgotten Walmart Crag which is located in the gully behind the water reservoir above the Evergreen Drive parking area. Walk straight ahead to the pump house (the small building with the green roof) and then steeply up behind it, skirting the reservoir on its right side. Drop back into the gully on the left and follow it to the cliffs. You will likely arrive at a wall with a very prominent left-facing corner with a chain anchor at the top. (There are several old routes and prospects here: a mixed route, two trad routes and a sport route.) Continue hiking up the gully for a few more minutes to Punk Rock - a nice looking, well cleaned buttress at the right end of the cliff band (about 10 minutes from the yellow gate.) Each route is equipped with anchor chains (not visible from below) and has the grade chalked at the start.

The starts of these routes are reported to be "stout" and "bouldery".

A. Strange Rover** 11a 9 bolts. Jason Chinchen 2021/03.
    Shares the first 3 bolts with the next route. A bolt was added near the bottom
    and additional cleaning has been done.
B. Bad Religion*** 11b 10 bolts. Jason Chinchen and Youric Gourdeau. 2021/03.
C. Socioloner*** 11d 9 bolts. Youric Gourdeau. 2021/03. Stick clip the second bolt.

Wave, The

Teddy Bears Picnic 12+ 5 bolts. Peter Arbic 2021/03. Short climb from the ledge L of Crestfallen.

Windy Point (Reilly Rock, South Face)

Access: Follow the trail along the base of the west face of Reilly Rock southwards and around broken rocks on its south end to a small south-facing slabby buttress. There are 3 short bolted routes here that are suitable for beginners or top roping (see photo for access to top anchors).

A. Slab 5.5 4 bolts 10 m.
B. Corner 5.7 5 bolts 12 m.
C. Arete 5.8 6 bolts 15 m.

Windy Wall (Reilly Rock, East Face)

Windy Wall is located just around the corner from Windy Point. There is a broad terrace at the base of the face which gradually narrows as you go north. Note: This is not a good place for unattended young children or unleashed dogs as there is a vertical drop-off to the valley floor 25 m below the terrace.

  1. Easy Street 5.7 8 bolts (unpainted hangers) 20m. Jon Jones 2020/11. Follow the slabby crest of the buttress to an anchor just below the top of the face.(Don't stray into the gully on the L as it is uncleaned and loose.)
  2. Mistral* 5.9 8 bolts (red hangers) 20m. Start 1 m R of Easy Street. Jon Jones 2020/11. Follow a rising traverse to the right to about mid-height and then climb straight up steeper rock to an anchor just below the top of the face.
  3. Scarface* 10c 9 bolts (unpainted hangers) 20m. Jon Jones 2020/11. A burly start leads to another rising traverse to the right. Two finishes available after the 4th bolt, both 10c, but the R one (C2, red hangers) is slightly more difficult.

  4. Project Steep crimp fest between Scarface and Much Gusto.

  5. Mucho Gusto* 10c 10 bolts. Jon Jones 2021/03/26. Starts in the prominent L-facing corner just R of the large charred tree trunk. A bit scruffy.

    Right of Mucho Gusto is a short overhanging buttress which features several routes and projects.

  6. Fly't Club** 12a 5 bolts. Climbs the left edge of this buttress. Short and powerful. Darren Melnychuk 2021-04-17.

  7. Flight of the Virgin 12b 6 bolts. Prep. Darren Melnychuk FA Shane Williams
      2022-05-10

  8. Weird Al Crankovic 11d 5 bolts. Prep Darren Melnychuk FA Casey Green 2022-05-06

  9. All Buttons In* 10c 4 bolts. Darren Melnychuk, Jenya Abramovitch, Maria Trudel.
    2021-04-17. Direct overhanging start to Crosswind. Stick clipping first bolt recommended.

    Just right of the large blocks, where the terrace narrows down to almost nothing, is a 2 bolt belay that serves the following 2 climbs.

  10. Crosswind** 10c 9 bolts (black hangers) 18 m. Start just L of belay bolts. Easy climbing up and R on a ramp to the first bolt. From here, go more or less straight up and then trend diagonally L to reach the R end of a large ledge. Climb up the face above to a crack and a tricky finish. Take a long (60cm) sling for the 5th bolt to reduce rope drag. Jon Jones 2020/12/06.

  11. A Room with a View** 10a 7 bolts (unpainted hangers) 17 m. Start as for the previous route but after the first bolt, follow the unpainted hangers to the right. Nice face climbing with mostly large hand holds. Rolf Rybak 2020/11.

    To get to the next group of climbs, traverse R around the corner (very exposed) to the narrow and precarious continuation of the ledge. A fixed line may be installed here in the future. This section of the face has been dubbed "ONS Junior Market" by the routes' developer.

  12. Heartstone**. 5.9+ 22m. 9 bolts or gear. Darren Melnychuk 2021-06-24. This climb was set up so that beginners can learn to place protection safely (by also clipping the bolts as back-up). It accepts a wide range of gear up to 3.5" and could be done solely on cams or nuts. Traverse right from the previous climb to a 2 bolt belay. Clip the first protection bolt and then pull up on the hand-line* to get to the third bolt (12+ if you want to free the start). Follow the crack to the anchor. Gear: 0.5'' - 3.5'' (*Note: The hand-line is temporary until rebar access rungs can be installed.)

    Just to the right, a 4th class (and very exposed) step down leads to a somewhat wider but quite rubbly ledge where the next two routes share a common start at the base of a prominent and appealing right-facing corner/crack. Note: this may be reached from the north via a very rough track (known as the Shortcut shortcut) that splits off to the right as you approach Shortcut Cliff and Behemoth from the north end.

  13. Above the Calm 11b PG 17 m. Darren Melnychuk 2021/05/24. Alternative finish to AAFATU (see below). Breaks out L at the roof at the top of the corner. Gear to 3.5'' plus small TCU's.

  14. An Affection for All Things Uncertain 11+ PG 25 m. Darren Melnychuk 2021/05/02. Good, but sometimes tricky to place, gear. Climb the R facing corner crack to the roof. Turn this on the R to reach a big jug and then work back left (crux) to cracks that lead to the anchor. Gear to 3.5'' plus small TCU's. Note: A yellow TCU is vital to protect the crux above the roof and must be placed blindly (awkward and fiddly) in the slot from the jug.

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