Canoe Trail Crags   (Last Updated 2022-03-21)

 
* Indicates new, or substantial changes, since previous update

These are a fairly new series of buttress at the north end of The Bluffs - just a few minutes walk from parking. The cliffs described here all face east and so are in the sun until early afternoon. They are situated near the floor of a narrow steep-sided valley and so the rock may be a little slow to dry after rain early and late in the year when the sun is low in the sky. Wear your helmet - the rock here is quite friable and the routes are still a bit "fresh".

(Note: These cliffs are on private land and not part of the imminent extension to Skaha Bluffs Provincial Park nor part of the proposed City of Penticton access corridor to the north end of the Park's extension.)

Approach:

Via The Canoe Trail.
Click here to see Skaha Bluffs Northern Access in the New Access Information section

If you are allergic to Poison Ivy be vigilant; there are some lush growths of it along this trail, especially for a hundred metres or so just south of Canoe Buttress.

Poison Ivy on the Canoe Trail

This is the short steep cliff on the right, partially hidden by trees, that you pass just a minute or two along the trail. All routes are by Nick Korvin, about 7m long and have 4 or 5 bolts. From L - R:

• My Crap Paddle** 12b/c October, 2020
  
• Crap! My Paddle** 11c/d Spring 2020
  
• Paddle My Crap* 12a/b Spring 2020
  

Continue south for a couple of minutes until you come to the remains of a white canoe, which was launched from the top of the cliff many years ago. Canoe Buttress (Right) is directly above this.

Canoe Buttress Right

A. Up the Spout** 10c 11 bolts 23m. Jon Jones 2019/12. Starts in the wide crack a few m L of Portage. Not as sustained but a little harder than Portage.

B. Portage*** 10c 13 bolts 25m. Rolf Rybak 2019/04. Sustained. Stellar!

C. Voyageur** 5.9 12 bolts 25m. Jon Jones 2019/01. Mega-fun.

D. Hitting Rock Bottom* 5.8+ 23m. Jon Jones 2019/01

Canoe Buttress Left

A' The Wreckage* 10c 10 bolts 20m. Jon Jones 2020/05. Starts 4m L of Run Aground.

A. Run Aground** 10c 11 bolts 20m. Jon Jones 2019/03.

B. Shooting the Rapids*** 10b 11 bolts 20m. Jon Jones 2019/03.

C. Different Strokes** 10a 10 bolts 18m.
    A burly start leads to easier climbing above. Jon Jones 2019/03.

D. High and Dry*** 10+ 10 bolts 18m. Jon Jones 2019/05.

E. Captain Hook* 10+ 8 bolts 15m. Jon Jones 2019/05.

*F. Outrigger** 10+ 9 bolts 16 m. Between Rock the Boat and Captain Hook.
     Same 2 bolt start as Rock the Boat then follow the black hangers up the arete.
     Rolf Rybak 2021-11-01.

G. Rock the Boat** 11- 9 bolts 15m. Rolf Rybak 2019/05. A tricky read at the crux.

The obvious slab, 25 m left of Canoe Buttress. L to R:

• The Elephant in the Room* 5.7 11 bolts 25m. Jon Jones 2019/04. Closely spaced bolts on left edge of the slab. A few metres right of The Elephant in the Room there are two climbs that Stan bolted for his kids.
• Muskrat Ramble** 5.6 (?) 10 bolts 25m. Mostly 5.4 with one short cruxy section.
  Stan Sabourin 2019/08.
• Alligator Crawl* 5.7 10 bolts 25m. Stan Sabourin 2019/08.

A small but nice looking buttress just to the L (S) of Canoe Slab. Follow trail that runs along the base of the rock face from Canoe Slab.

Castaway** 10d 7 bolts Rolf Rybak 2020/10.
Cast Off 5.8 6 bolts. Rolf Rybak 2021/01/13.
Adrift* 10a 7 bolts. Rolf Rybak 2021/01/13.

Continue south for another 50 m or so. Scramble up a rough trail on the right through small rock steps (some fixed rope) to a higher terrace at the base of the climbs.

Overview: CFL Canoe Far Left, CR Castaway Rock,
CS Canoe Slab, CBR Canoe Buttress Right.

A. Port * 5.9+ 9 bolts. Rolf Rybak 2019/08. Face climb on the L.
B. Starboard*** 5.7 8 bolts. Rolf Rybak 2019/08. Nice (bolted) crack line on R.

Continue a few minutes south from Canoe Buttress on the main trail. Slalom Rock is on the right and is easily identified by the large off-set overhang that traverses the upper part of the face. The start of the trail to the base of the cliff is opposite the left (southern) end of the main cliff and is marked by flagging tape. The rock here is very fractured, so climb with care as you may encounter loose rock despite extensive cleaning. And wear a helmet!

A. Slalom* 11a 9 bolts. Weave your way up the rock! Rolf Rybak 2019/04
B. Project
C. Project?
*D. A Start Without a Finish** 5.10+ 8 bolts 14 m. Jon Jones 2022-03-02.
     Start on the blunt arete where the access ledge narrows down to almost nothing.
    Climb the arete to the overlap. Turn this and work slightly L to larger holds and a
     no-hands rest.From here you can finish up the groove of A Finish Without a Start
     (5.7),but it is more fun (though contrived) to climb the exposed face
     to the L (10c?) (Note: It is probably best to belay (2 bolts) on the ledge
     directly below the start so that the leader is visible on the upper part of the climb.)
*E. A Finish Without a Start* 5.7, 8 bolts 18 m. Jon Jones 2022-02-15.
    Start at the extreme R (N) end of the cliff. A steep move (crux) leads to a
    gently rising traverse L and an obvious groove.
     (Note: It is probably best to belay (2 bolts) on the ledge below and
    to the R of the start so that the leader is visible on the upper part of the climb.)

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